1st May 2017
The previous evening, we met some lovely people, called Jasmine and Alan. They were onboard a massive 62 foot catamaran they were intrigued by Asena, and came across to chat. After getting to know them, we exchanged numbers and said we would stay in touch. Also during the evening, our friends from Teobel came to see us, but they couldn’t stay because it was too deep of a bay. They did a very stylish drive by with their friend on board who is also a travel blogger as she hikes the Lycian Way.
As the sun slowly rose over the barren and unpasteurized hill, the smell of wild shrubbery once again enlightened the air.
Protected from wind and waves, the small islet on Tersane had became one of our favorite places to anchor. Our itinerary for today’s trip was to go for a small sail around the beautiful Göcek Gulf, before heading to Kapi Creek, which is also known as Göbün.
Before we departed Tersane, we had a Turkish breakfast at the small, enchanting restaurant, which sat just behind the water line.
Afterwards, we left Tersane and put the sails up, before heading out into a deeper and windier area.
We sailed for over an hour and a half, joyful to have the pure and salty air back on our faces. Gliding over the lush blue water at just under eight knots, we caught a glimpse of flying fish, which elegantly arched over the water. As water pounded over the hull, we, along with many other yachts sailing at the time rushed across the Göcek Gulf.
One thing that made us different from the rest of the boats roaring across the gulf, was the fact mums screaming was much louder than the rushing water or wind!
Whilst sailing, we practiced how to tack-(changing course by moving through the wind), and GEOFF amused himself by having a virtual ” not race ” with the boys in the yacht some distance ahead of us, he wasn’t really sheeting in and going yee hah, hung ho, trying to catch them up… no!
Before heading back towards the beautiful and enchanting inlets we caught them up and GEOFF let out an ecstatic ” whoop” of joy, then we lost the wind completely…. he can be a little embarrassing at times!
After having lots of fun, we put down the sails and motored towards Kapi Creek.
Upon arriving at Kapi though, we were met with a small, cramped bay, lots of boats (!) and no room for us to park, so after checking our Göcek Gulf sailing guide, we motored in and out of a couple of nearby possibilities, until we entered the unusually named Seagull bay. Once in there, it’s name immediately made sense.
At the far end of the sheltered bay, some stones where painted white and resembled the shape of a Seagull. After some perfect parking, (again, yes, well done Geoff! ) we spent the afternoon relaxing, mum and Geoff reading, while I built a den on the stony beach.
Before the sun went down, mum and I rowed over to where the restaurant was. The ramshackle building and scruffy beach was not inviting, but what we did notice was the fact there were paths heading in all different directions, which would be perfect to take the dogs on, for a nice long stroll. After returning back to the boat, we planned to go for a walk on those paths the next morning, so watch this space…
2nd May 2017
After a good nights sleep, I joined mum and Geoff in the cockpit, to discover that they had been awake since six o’clock, waiting for the sun to rise over the hills. However, a blanket of grey clouds had lined the sky, meaning there wasn’t any sunrise of any sort in sight.
An hour later, mum and I went ashore with the dogs to go for the walk on the supposed ‘path’ to the supposed Lycian ruins……
Upon landing Doris at the beach, Asena and Vodka rushed ashore on to the dirty sand. As Asena led the way up the dirt track, we were met with a farmyard, and a field where a Donkey and two goats were. The Donkey was immediately alarmed, and started pulling funny faces and making a very strange, loud noise.
Remembering her last experience with a donkey, where she nearly got kicked in the face, Asena shyed away, while vodka got picked up. As we continued our walk , we entered a forest where, on the other side, we were met with a lovely view overlooking a bay. We wandered deeper into the forest, all the time thinking about how very similar this expanse of trees looked to the last expanse of trees, etc… for, probably too long, and, by the time one of us voiced the alarm that, ” erm, do you think we should really turn around now and head back……?” We were pretty much lost! Aha, erm, yeah!
With mum deciding this way, and I concluding that ” this patch of densely populated woodland strewn with sharp, unforgiving rocks on the ground ” looked something like this patch of densely populated woodland strewn with sharp, unforgiving rocks on the ground, Asena actually discovered something she was good at, ( apart from rescuing passing snorkelers who don’t particularly want to be rescued ) and stood adamantly pointing ( with her nose, she hadn’t reared up on her hind legs with a fore leg extended ) deeper into the forest, then over some bushes, then through a clearing….. and hey presto, we were back in the donkey field.
Heaving a sigh of relief and waving at the disgruntled donkey we trudged down the dusty track to the beach.
We rowed the dinghy back to the yacht and glanced over what was once ( apparently, due to articles we had read about ” Seagull Bay ” or ” Yavansu Koyu ” ) a thriving restaurant and busy yacht pontoon… the pontoon/ jetty was now in massive ruin and virtually has no walkway save a meter or so of “passable” planks, the restaraunt doesn’t seem to exist anymore, but even in blogs and articles I read from 2013, even then the resteraunts owner was using a washing up bowl on the floor and his kitchen was outside under a tarpaulin. One article called him ” Ahmet the dreamer” because he was speculating that his pontoon would hold 200 yachts the next year, 2014! Wel, it doesn’t.
It is, however an absolutely beautiful Bay and is screaming for some major development. Mum mentioned that the bay reminded her of Marti marina bay, and sure enough, in some writings about Yavansu Kolu it is given several other names, one of them indeed, being ” Marti “……. Other articles talk about the wind being too dangerous to anchor overnight and the waves from the main Gocek Gulf being a disturbance, but we experienced none of that tucked away in our little, hidden anchorage which we had found, and No, i’m not giving you the co,ordinates!
Once back at the boat, we read our books and had lunch, before leaving Seagull bay and heading to our next bay, called Wall Bay. It’s name comes from the ancient wall dating back to the Byzantine period, and immediately next to it, on the other side of the wall (!) is Ruin Bay. This is another example of the same bays having many different names, some people know this as Hamam Bay, Cleopatra Bay and Ruin Bay we will stick with the latte….Ruin bay has some ancient houses which are semi-submerged in the crystal clear water, they date back to Roman times.
After a flawless mooring manouvere ( yes… well done Geoff!) we sat chatting to a local fisherman who was upset that the large amount of pufferfish had now really affected his local fishing business, however, he did promise to catch us a big fish.
After meeting him, mum and I left the boat to go for the second walk of the day, this time heading to the ancient ruins in Ruin Bay. The bay is also known as Cleopatra bay, because Cleopatra herself came here at lest twice, once time even with the love of her life, Roman leader Marc Antony. The old Hamam is still there, but it isn’t protected, meaning it is getting damaged. The walk there was quite difficult, due to the fact we got of the path near to the Byzantine wall, but we soon arrived.
That evening, we enjoyed the sun setting and went for dinner.
The restaurant at Wall Bay has undergone some massive refurbishment over the past winter and a huge cash injection from one of the worlds top cancer doctors. The place, still in mid build, is really eye opening. They are importing sand for a private beach, building rock pontoons to accommodate super yachts, have a 300 seater restaurant, a massive glass library ( which will be the winter restaurant) an al fresco dance floor, several bars, massage/treatment rooms and a doctors surgery (?!) . Next year they are building bungalows or stilt houses in the landscaped gardens…. the place, half finished is very impressive!!!! We will return!
Parking on their pontoons is side to, so the two pontoons can only accommodate limited number of yachts, but definitely worth a visit.
Camp Fire Bay.
Because the sailing was so easy this morning- under head sail only – mum had plenty of time to make coffee and sit in the sun, this , often poses problems…. for example, currently, mother is in the throws of a minor nervous breakdown because the spotty ” Whittards of London” mugs which have survived being tossed about in ships lockers since 2012, don’t actually go with the new orange and grey decor…… This is why the skipper likes to monkey us sal hard a lot of the time, it saves mother being distracted by cushions and girly stuff!!
We did some tacking around in the bay then lost all the wind so chugged over to Yassica Adasi, but round onto the beach side. We guessed that it would be quiet over here, free from trip boats, but we were wrong. There was space for us to anchor…. but too many tourists everywhere! ( which I guess is a good thing for Turkeys economy at last, perhaps it’s on the up turn?)
Returning to a secluded, unlisted bay opposite Yassica we claimed it as our own and named it ” campfire Bay” . I set about collecting driftwood for the afternoon!