Two Bays And Two Days…
5th August 2016
After staying at the marina in Leros for three nights waiting for the wind to change, we left the island and once again started heading south, this time towards Kos.
The next island we were going to was Kalymnos, the island which is famous amongst climbers for the large, towering cliffs that boast an excellent view from the top. We had previously stayed there before in the main town of Pothia, this time, however, we’d be staying on a mooring bouy at the northern part of island which we were told was a very sheltered, quiet and calm bay with many restaurants and tavernas ashore.
On the way, we sailed with just the headsail, through quite a bumpy and roly sea which made the passage, as usual, uncomfortable! From the sea, we could see both the coastlines of Kalymnos and Leros. Both islands are very rocky and have steep towering cliffs that stand proudly over the waves below. Many rocks have broken away from the cliffs and now lie still at the waters edge, where the strong swell comes crashing onto the islands. (I’m sure at this moment that your thinking I’m not actually sailing in Greece, in nice calm, glassy waters, but if I remember correctly, the last port/marina I went into, WAS flying a Greek flag!)
As we put the sails down and motored into the tranquil bay, we passed many more cliffs that rose into the sky with many caves and cracks. We also passed a large fish farm that was surrounded by gulls and other flamboyant sea birds, that danced in the skies waiting for an opportunity to pinch a fresh meal. There were also many beaches too, with barely any people on them, maybe because they could only be reached by sea. Then we saw the resturants’ mooring bouys, so, as usual we perfectly executed the collection, and, because we all worked as a team, we parked onto the bouy.
This is a very beautiful bay, busy with vacationers and locals alike and with a handful of tavernas and beach bars to choose from. The Orthodox Church or monastery is virtually on the beach and laughter echoes around the bay from the villages young community. What else was quite interesting was every bodies smart phones trained on mum in her hammock as she quietly swung to and fro in the swell reading her book……..wait……
” splash ” again… And again!
Soon, dancing between the moored yachts and fishing boats could be seen a school of diving Dolphins! The first on our trip so far!
The Dolphins swam right in between all the moored boats, and left an intricate web of silver splashes where they had been, drawing gasps from the people on the beaches and sending many yachties scurrying for smart phones and cameras! ( missed it!!)
Absolutely beautiful to watch and so close! Sorry!
That evening, we ate at the restaurant, “Artistico” where we all had excellent meals. We also met a girl called Emma from England, studying classical literature and who has vowed to become my new editor and publisher…. When I make it big!
Anyway, Emma forced mum and Geoff to drink extortionate amounts of red wine which caused us to go to bed at 1:00 in the morning. I think we’ll have to see if we leave Tommorow! (6th)
6th August 2016
As the sun rose above the high cliffs, the smell of oregano lingered in the cool and refreshing air. That night was dreadful. We had been told that the bay was calm, quiet and peaceful, but in fact it was so loud, rocky, and hot. The band playing at the bar down the beachfront gave in and shut up, eventually, at 4 am at which point ( unlike Lindos, when the Donkeys take over with their ” here hawing” at dawn, ) the cockerels started fighting for superiority!
So, eventually, after a bit of a lie in – when the confused cockerels had obviously gone for lunch – at 9:45, we left the bay of Emporio, and again started heading south.
We had planned to take berth in Kos marina, on the north part of the large island, but they were full, so we decided to swing on anchor on the southern tip, Kamari. Last time we came here we berthed on the harbour wall. As we slowly motored passed the rocky and unforgiving shoreline, a large swell started coming through and into this sheltered area. This caused our saloon area to become a mess of flying books falling off shelves, fruit rolling from one side of the floor to the other, cushionage-(mothers way of saying cushion)- becoming displaced and on the floor and many other things thrown around below. Up top we weren’t faring too well either….( apparently, this is because I managed to sleep a lot of the way across and only found myself thrown to the floor two or three times ) Geoff was fine and helmed across sideways waves for hours whilst mother aged a little and considered another nervous breakdown!
We did hope that the waves would calm and become more flat and hopefully disappear altogether…..they didn’t.
Instead the waves continued smacking the side of the yacht, and kept on launching it into a rolling action. The smell of oregano had now perished, and had now been replaced with the smell of sea salt and dampness. The sun struggling to stay out, continuously moved in and out of the clouds, whilst the horizon kept on going up and down, once level with the yacht, then COMPLETELY out of sight, just the endless sky your vista! It was The rocking motion which kept me fast asleep.
When I did wake up, we were entering the bay into Kamari. The waves had gone and they were now replaced with still calm seas. That evening, after dropping the anchor, we sat in the cockpit whilst mum recovered from her girlishness and watched the clouds roll in over the hills, bringing damp and chill to the August air.